Tutorial: Moana Heart of Te’Fiti Pendant

Tutorial: Moana Heart of Te’Fiti Pendant

This weekend’s tutorial is a guide on making Disney’s Moana Heart of Te’Fiti pendant. The pendant–technically a piece of rock–is iconic to the movie, and is central to the plot.

When I made this tutorial, Moana was only recently released, and high resolution photos of the stone weren’t available yet, thus the end product isn’t as accurate as I’d like. Someday I may revisit this and make a more accurate tutorial!

 photo Moana-86.jpgReference from the Moana movie.

  • Polymer clay in greens, pearl white, and translucent.
  • Scrap polymer clay
  • Mica powder
  • Microfine Glitter
  • Casting Epoxy (I use Castin’ Craft) and colorant (I use oil paints.)

 photo tefiti_1.jpgFirstly, I made a Skinner Blend using the pearl aqua green clay (my own blend of colors) and pearl white clay. Mica powder has been conditioned into each color to give it more shimmer, and the look of a precious rock. I didn’t want the rock to just be one slab of color, so I settled on making a soft gradient for it.

 photo tefiti_2.jpgThe Skinner Blend is a polymer clay technique for making gradients, and click here for a wonderful tutorial on it.

 photo tefiti_3.jpgI made the rock shape in scrap polymer clay, and go over it with the gradient. I usually use scrap clay to fill in insides of shapes or molds, so that nothing goes to waste.

 photo tefiti_4.jpgSmooth the gradient sheet over with a silicone tool. Now it looks more like a “rock”. Notice the rich shimmer thanks to the mica powder!

 photo tefiti_5.jpgI haven’t been able to take enough photos of this process, but next thing I do is roll a very thin sheet of translucent clay mixed with fine glitter, and then cut out shapes from it according to the shapes of the reference. I also cut out a shape from the rest of the gradient clay I made earlier, this time the darker part of it. I then put the cutouts over onto the base gradient rock, smoothing and blending it into it.

I then baked the rock in my oven, and then sand and buff it with a rotary tool. I meant for the stone to become a pendant, so I put in a screw pin into it.

 photo tefiti_6.jpgI wanted to give the rock it’s “glow”, so I mixed some yellow green oil paint into casting epoxy, then coating the base rock with it. I let it cure for a day.

 photo tefiti_7.jpgNotice how there’s an illusion of the rock “glowing” when it’s hit by light? It looks really pretty! *w*

If you’re aiming for a more accurate stone, I’d suggest casting the entire thing in Casting Epoxy for that transparent look, and perhaps mixing in some glow in the dark powder!

I hope this tutorial still helped you out, and I may redo this stone when time permits!

xoxo Xarin


Tutorial: Miraculous Ladybug Earrings

Tutorial: Miraculous Ladybug Earrings

This week’s blog update is a quick tutorial on one of our most sought-after products: Marinette’s earrings from the series “Miraculous Ladybug”.

The iconic earrings feature a red dome with five dots on them, mounted on a silver earring base. For this tutorial I’ll be using polymer clay and casting resin, to make a semi-transparent dome with dots encapsulated inside, to be sure that they don’t fade.


  • Polymer clay, in black.
  • Silicone putty, or any mold making material.
  • Casting Epoxy (I use Castin’ Craft)
  • Red colorant (I use red food color)
  • Silver earring base settings (I used 12mm ones)

 photo mlear-1.jpg
To start, I make molds from Silicone Putty with a base that I measured fits the earring base exactly. If you can’t make your own mold, or have no mold making material, be creative and use hollow domes from watercolor pans, as long as they fit your earring base! I made two molds here (other one not shown) to make a pair of earrings.

 photo mlear-2.jpg
I cut out five dots of polymer clay in black, and then position them into the mold, using liquid clay if needed to hold their place. Do the same for the other earring mold, and then bake in your polymer clay oven following your clay’s instructions.
The reason I use polymer clay for these earrings is because most people draw the dots on or use a printed base behind the dome, which will fade over time. Those are surely cheaper, less labor intensive ways to go about it, but if you plan to keep your earrings for years or want to wear them daily, and not just in cosplay, it’s worth it to go the extra trouble.

 photo mlear-3.jpg
When the dots are baked, I carefully pour a mix of tinted casting epoxy into the molds. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Don’t know how to use casting epoxy? You can check my tutorial on it here.

 photo mlear-4.jpg
After the domes are cured, I pop them out of the mold. After that I may or may not need to put an extra coat of glaze or resin on them to make them shinier… and then finally, glue them to the earring base! And we’re all done!
It looks straightforward and simple, but is actually a time-consuming progress, however the results are quite cute!

 photo il_570xN.1138640241_swqk.jpg

Remember that if you aren’t confident in your skills or don’t have access to the materials used here, you can always put in an order for these earrings at my Etsy store. Support from my store guarantees that I can keep crafting, and providing free craft and cosplay tutorials on this blog!
Happy crafting!

Yuri Plisetsky Cosplay Construction Notes

Yuri Plisetsky Cosplay Construction Notes

Seeing Yuri!!! On Ice last year was certainly iconic for me. I personally invested in seeing all of it for one reason: Yuri Plisetsky. The moment his eyes glittered over from seeing the tiger shirt in episode 2 (or 3) resonates with me when I see cute stuff, haha! From then on I decided to give cosplaying him a go, in his edgy streetwear.

His streetwear version can be broken down into:
– Tiger Shirt
– Leopard Print sports jacket
– Zip up Black Hoodie
– Black pants
– Studded bag


The pants and hoodie is something you’re likely to already have in your own closet (…or in my case… my brother’s closet LOL) which makes the major part of this cosplay clearly the tiger shirt and the leopard jacket. Most of my sewing / construction is on the jacket.


 photo yurio1.jpg
For the leopard print, I scoured the thrift stores (ukay-ukay, Goodwill) for any garment that had a leopard print in a good fabric.

Things to consider when buying a base piece to upcycle are firstly the quality of the print–don’t go for a garment with a blurry print–and then the quality of the fabric. Other things to consider? The size/amount of fabric, make sure there’s enough in the base garment to make the new garment you’re making.

 photo yurio8.jpg
I scored a winter faux-fur vest that had off-white fur and was fully lined with leopard spot faux fur inside. For P220 (4-5USD). Later I found out a yardage of this leopard faux fur is P460 (10-11USD) … so by upcycling you save up a lot! Also I’ll be using the white fur for another cosplay, haha!

For the new jacket itself, I took my black fabric scraps (I used peach twill) to construct the upper part of the jacket. I used the pattern for an ordinary bodice, only sewing in shoulder darts. (You can even get by without doing that.) No waist darts since this is meant to emulate ready-to-wear menswear.

 photo yurio2.jpg
Attached the black jacket parts to the leopard. I kinda did an epic fail and cut the leopard print before looking at the reference… it was supposed to attach diagonally to the black parts, but I cut it at a straight… SO MORAL LESSON! LOOK AT THE REFERENCE BEFORE CUTTING! I just decided to roll with it though and crossed my fingers that no one will notice

I didn’t do it here since I realized it too late (again… I wasn’t looking at the reference), but you’ll probably want to add a welt pocket.

The faux fur itself is flimsy, so I lined the jacket with lining fabric (carillo/pongee/geena)inside. Also for comfort when wearing.

 photo yurio7.jpg
Eventually, I added the sleeves and the collar, and the sport-y stripes. If you’re into details, use knit cuffs , collar and jacket trim. I had no access to them so I just used more black peach twill and white bias tape.

For finishing–added decorative buttons and a jacket zip. The buttons aren’t functional and are decorative. I’m confused by the references because on some photos he has buttons on both panels of the jacket?

 photo yurio5.jpg
Jacket done!
 photo yurio9.jpg
For the shirt, I went to my local t-shirt printing service and had the shirt printed. The tiger print in the series was remastered by my brother, who is a digital artist. I had it done as a normal shirt, not a long sleeved sweater as is the reference, for ease of wear (so its not too hot… he’s wearing like 3 layers of clothes he can’t survive in tropical weather).


 photo yurio6.jpg
The wig I chose for Yurio was one of the¬† blonde bob style wigs from Airily, which my friend happened to be destashing/selling from her personal stock. The Airily brand is a brand from Japan by the people behind World Cosplay and is one of the best wigs I’ve ever used.

Cut some layers from the wig to style.


For the makeup, I used Gwyshop’s Sugoi Eyes Dango Green, did subtle contouring, and focused on extending the eyes to make it look longer. That and a “manly” arched brow.


 photo received_10154837152838351.jpeg
Cosplay done and debuted last Christmas Toycon 2016! Featured photo by Jipri.

I didn’t have the hoodie here yet, and the bag either, but I’m hoping to improve this cosplay again come YOI-con!

Hope this helps you guys put together your own Yurio cosplay! If you have questions, just comment down and I’ll try my best to answer. ^^

Review : Eyemi Blue Contact lenses

Review : Eyemi Blue Contact lenses

Happy New Year everyone! Slowly trying to get back into the hang of blogging here! 2016 has been meh and cruel to me, and I’ve been in a fairly long hiatus with the blog, even. I haven’t even finished the polymer clay tutorial series I was working on I’ve got some great things in store for everyone this year, and a lot of backlogs to post, including quick and helpful reviews like this one: my quick review of Eyemi Blue.

Looking for a pair of blue contact lenses for your cosplay that will show up on dark eyes? Eyemi has you covered! The brand is currently one of my favorites when it comes to vibrant colors that show up even on dark irises. I have black eye color naturally, and finding lenses that really show up on them is tough.

 photo emblue-1.jpg
Eyemi lenses come in a box packaging, with a really cute cat design! Mine was purchased from Megumii. Buying from them gives you a free contact lens case and kit as well, with tweezers and applicators for the contacts. ^^

 photo em-blue2.jpg
The lenses have 14.5mm diameter, with a limbal ring that isn’t too thick, and design hat isn’t too “out-there” with the focus really being on the color.

 photo 13415549_1114738751933402_3491412862508674207_o.jpg
When worn: First two photos in indoor light, taken with a point-and-shoot camera (digicam)
Last photo (with makeup) taken with the front/selfie camera of a tablet.

 photo 15967357_120300001543745030_951549405_o.jpg
In natural light, selfie taken with a tablet. The color shows up well enough even in selfies taken from arm’s length.
The lenses are also pretty comfortable, and I’m able to wear them for extended¬† hours. In fact I bought an entire set of the other colors just for my cosplays this entire 2017—*sweats* I’d really recommend these to cosplayers!

How’s your experience with Eyemi if you already have them? What’s your favorite contact lenses for cosplay? Let me know in the comments!

xoxo Xarin

*This post is not sponsored; lenses are purchased for my personal use with my own money.

Polymer Clay 101: Conditioning your Clay

Polymer Clay 101: Conditioning your Clay

Polymer clay from the pack is oftentimes firm so that they can be manufactured into their respective blocks. Before you can morph it into your desired shape, first you condition it.

[B]”Conditioning” is actually just a really fancy word for kneading your clay, either with your hands, a clay roller, or a pasta machine.

Certain brands of clay are harder to condition than others (FIMO Classic, Kato) while some clay brands are made softer and easier to condition (Bakeshop, Sculpey III).

The bigger the piece of clay, the more time you need to spend conditioning it!


[B]Clay not conditioned well or long enough often results in air bubbles trapped inside the clay, which mostly only show up after baking.


Properly conditioned clay will bake with a smooth surface.

I can’t tell you how long to condition a clay on specific, because it really all depends on the amount of clay you’re working with. Just make sure that there are no hard bumps and lumps that you still feel while kneading the clay!


Some clays are much tougher than others and can be difficult to condition for those with more delicate hands.

[B]Or sometimes you’re just unlucky and end up with “expired” clay—these are clay packs that are brittle, and fall apart and just not want to stick with each other when you start to handle them.


[B]They get rock hard because the oil and moisture in them seems to have dried out. You can use a Clay Softener to help restore them and make conditioning easy, but a cheap alternative is to get a ziplock bag and put your clay in it, add a few drops of baby oil, and let it sit at least overnight. The clay will be much easier to work with in the morning!

Hope this helps! Feel free to ask more questions, and don’t forget that every Wednesday (GMT+8) I’ll be posting Polymer Clay tips for newbies, so please follow if you’d like to stay tuned!

xoxo Xarin

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