So last month, I attended my first con of the year–Cosplay Carnival, a new event held by Cosplay.ph , catered more to newcomers in the cosplay scene. Since I anticipated that I would be going alone, I prepared a simple costume for the event–which is Makise, from Steins;Gate. I haven’t actually seen the whole series yet, but my brother is such a massive fan and wanted us to pair up and cosplay the main protagonists from the series. I gave it a go because she’s wearing plenty of simple clothes that can be bought off the store shelves. I only edited existing clothes I had or bought, sewing in blue bias tape onto the collar, adding on a patch pocket and the likes.
My brother was unable to go with me, but I look forward to having him with me as Okabe soooon!
Photo by Kevin Vincent.
Photo by Weeaboo with a Camera.
Photo by Mavshutter Photography.
Photo by Weeaboo with a Camera.
Anyway, this is definitely just a self-gratuitous filler post!
I honestly doubt anyone here comes to look at my face lol But do stay tuned, next week I’ve got new craft and cosplay posts and reviews once more!
One thing I’ve been asked a lot in my craft by beginners is which clay brand they should buy when they’re starting out, or which clay brand is the “best” to use. So finally, I’ve decided to write a blog post about it!
Actually this all has been written down a year or so ago in an e-book I was planning to finish but never continued—
There are different clay brands in the market from different brands, each with their own different properties. Not one is superior to the other—I personally think it’s a matter of what project they are suited to. If you make a wide variety of things like I do, it’d be best to keep stock of various brands that will fit your different projects.
Polymer clay is generally priced from 65-130PHP and is usually sold in 50g and 100g bars.
One of the cheapest clay in the market. It is marketed as a kid’s polymer clay, thus it is very soft and easy to knead. Color selections are limited. It bakes brittle and heavy, with sort of a rough surface.
Sculpey III is easily bought in specialty art stores in the country and comes in a wide array of colors. The clay is soft and easy to condition, which is why it is recommended for beginners. The clay bakes with a matte, bisque finish.
Premo! By Sculpey
Premo is more pigmented compared to Sculpey III, and is a tiny bit more expensive. The clay bakes with a slight sheen, and has slight flexibility when baked in thin sections. Color selections are limited, and the complete colors are rarely carried in stores. This is a good choice for metallic-colored clays, and those with “special” colors (eg., marble, granite, glittered) The clay is a little firmer, making it suitable for detailed work. The clay cures to a slight sheen.
FIMO Classic, manufactured by German company, Staedtler, is a very firm clay that requires a bit of conditioning, and in most cases, a clay softener. Despite that, this clay is still a favourite of many artists due to the great color selection, and the fact that the clay’s vibrant colors are retained very well even after being baked. FIMO Classic also cures with a glossy finish, almost like hard candy.
FIMO Soft mostly has the Classic’s properties, except it’s (obviously) much softer and easier to knead. I find the colors from Soft have less shine when baked compared to Classic.
Nendo Polymer Clay
Nendo is a locally-available clay that is noted for its supreme flexibility. The clay is easy to condition and is elastic. Once baked, the clay has a slight sheen, and is very flexible. As with flexible clays, the clay may be a bit sticky to work with for those with warm hands.
Flexiclay 3 Polymer Clay
Another local brand, Flexiclay comes in a wide assortment of colors and, as the name suggests, has good flexibility. Flexi3 is firmer than Nendo, and is not as flexible, but it is easier to handle as they clay is not overly sticky or soft. To try out this clay and order some, you can check their facebook page here.
Sculpey Ultralight Clay
Most, if not all polymer clay has significant weight once they are cured, especially if you intend to make big pieces. Except Ultralight clay, which is almost like marshmallow to the touch. It only comes in one color (white) and is mostly used as the core or filler for bigger clay projects.
Different brands carry their own lines of Liquid Polymer clay that come in different colors. They become firm when baked, and are mostly used for adhering two pieces of clay together in the baking process, or as decorative “sauces” or paints.
Which Clay should I Use?
As I’ve said before, no clay is truly superior, each clay has its properties that makes it suitable for different types of projects.
Matte polymer clays that bake with a dry, “rough-to-the-touch” finish are ideal for paintwork. The rougher surfaces of these clays once baked make them ideal for being painted. Clays with a shiny finish will resist inks and paints unless they are roughened beforehand.
Firmer clays are ideal for detailwork such as engraving or carving out shapes or tiny details. Soft clays are easily distorted with a simple nudge, making them unideal. Firmer clays are recommended for making canes for the same reason.
Soft, flexible clays are ideal for making thin pieces pieces that have to resist breakage (ex. Flower petals). While soft, matte clays could also do the same thing, they bake hard and brittle, making thin pieces prone to snapping and breaking.
Hope this post helps you out if you’ve been trying to decide which brand to buy! Soon I might make a youtube guide so you can better see the qualities of the clay and their differences!
One of my new favorite jewelry craft stores in Quiapo is Chains Beads Components. It’s a great store for vintage lovers, craftsmen, and costumers. They have a great array of chains by the meter, pendants, filigrees, lockets and findings in different finishes (antique, gold, silver) and cords, suede strips, etc.
The store is easily located in the same lane as other jewelry craft stores in Quiapo, along Villalobos Street.
There’s rolls of chains and cords in the center aisle rack, in different finishes. They also have a lot with rhinestones if you wanted to make sparkly costumes~!
Part of my haul from it the last time I went there; I bought a lot of antique finish keys for a costume that I was making. They also have a lot of different lockets and cameo settings, and they also sell those in bulk.
They have a lot of different sizes of O rings, which I use to buckle straps and such when I do make armor pieces for costumes.
I make sure to drop by the store whenever I’m in the area! It’s a great find if you’re into vintage charms and pieces, and you’re into a lot of different sorts of metal hardware for your jewelry or costume making hobby~!
Hello to another construction note entry from me! This time, I’ll be walking you through how I made my Ace Attorney: Maya Fey costume. It’s actually a pretty easy project to tackle; Maya’s outfit is meant to be loose-fitting, so accuracy in fit is not much of an issue. The colors are basic with no prints, so there’s little need to match up things. You can also complete the cosplay in a matter of a few days, even if you’re an amateur. I hope this entry helps you with making your own Maya costume!
First, let’s start off with the pattern for the kimono top. Before proceeding, I’d like to tell everyone I’m no expert in drafting patterns and took no professional classes; I make things based on instinct and just observing how clothes are made. My way may be technically incorrect, but they work for casual costuming. So that also explains why there won’t be technical sewing jargon here, and why the pattern draft I’m showing is very… raw. xD
I drafted a one-piece pattern that only joins at the shoulders, as opposed to a four-piece pattern. This is kinda more authentic to what she’s really wearing, and let’s face it; seams are unflattering. This pattern joins together at the shoulder seams only.
The whole garment is based off of the widest measurement in your body that the garment will cover. For mine, it’s the hip measurement. If your bust is bigger than your hip, you should be basing this measurement off of your bust instead. The other measurements needed are the whole length of the garment (I had it fall to my mid-thigh) and armhole measurement.
I just basically joined it at the shoulder seams and turned the armhole allowance and sewed it down. For strip down the front of the kimono, I cut out a long rectangle of fabric, folded it in half, and used it to encase the raw edge of the garment.
I added some darts to give it more shape, instead of something that was entirely loose.
I WILL PROBABLY EDIT THIS ARTICLE AND GIVE A MORE ACCURATE PATTERN SOMETIME
I regret not having photos to show you the process… xD
The purple cardigan/jacket thing on top of it was made with the same base pattern as the kimono, but of course with sleeves, and the front parts were edited so that they don’t overlap each other. I made them slightly less wide, so that the front part doesn’t close all the way, like Maya’s own purple throw jacket thingy.
The red sash was one big strip of rectangle that i just tie/knot into place. The red bow that goes with it was a detachable bow that I just pin onto the sash. Because I can’t knot a pretty bow even if I tried, so I thought it’d be more convenient of the bow was detachable.
The wig was honestly fun to style! Okay it was frustrating at first, but then I figured how to get that neat topknot. You’ll have to use barettes–the ones that have a spring-like thing inside?! Not that ones that you snap shut. This evenly distributes the wig fibers into a wide section, as opposed to just one section if you tie it with an elastic. I used two barettes, and sandwiched the topknot in between those, to get it to stay in place. I used purple polymer clay on the barette fronts, to match the ones Maya is using.
The round hair orbs are also made from polymer clay. I used Ultralight clay inside (so it doesn’t weight too much), and covered it with Sculpey’s purple, and then punched an hole through the orb with a stick or whatever you have on hand. How do I get it to stay on the wig? First, you have to section the hair and tie it around the part you want the orb to stay with hair elastic, and then slip the orbs over to those elastics. The orbs will grip the hair elastics and stay in place.
The magatama necklace was also made with polymer clay, the bigger orbs made with Ultralight. I threaded them with nylon string (the transparent fishing line stuff apparently?) to create the illusion that they’re floating, because Maya’s necklace in all her art is like, where’s the thread holding them together?!
The wrist bracelets were red bias tape strands that I just knotted into place. xD For makeup, I made it light, and “barely-there”–just focusing on clear skin and bigger eyes. I didn’t even put on falsies!
They will just be covered up by her bangs haha
So I think that covers it! Find your Nick, get ready to hit the courtrooms, point fingers, and yell “OBJECTION!”
Feel free to ask anything in the comments!
HELLO FINALLY TIME TO GET THIS BLOG UP AND RUNNING AGAIN! Today I’d like to blog about something that I’ve been frequently asked–how I order my Sakizo artbooks from Japan. It’s actually a pretty straightforward process that’s simply signing up and ordering, so this blog post will be ultra short and sweet! This process requires that you have a Paypal or credit card. If you don’t have either a Paypal or credit card, feel free to message me on Facebook if you’d like me to place an order for you for a small service charge.
The distributor of Sakizo’s works online is Alice Books Japan. Their site is in Japanese, but there’s a tab at the upper right corner that will translate the website to English for foreign buyers.
I recommend signing up for an account, which secures your details for you in case you’d like to purchase again in the future. Trust me, you’ll get hooked! Apart from Sakizo, who has quite the following among Lolita enthusiasts, I also recommend artists like Matsuo Hiromi and AZSA, especially for J-Fashion lovers~
From then on it’s a simple matter of adding the artbooks you want to get to your cart, and then checking out and providing your details. Payment options are thru Paypal and credit cards. For the Philippines, I recommend getting the ordinary shipping, which costs about 800JPY (300PHP) for one book. I’ve used this twice now, and my books arrived to me in 7-10 days, with no tax. (These books pass as documents, and are never taxed whenever I order them, and are delivered to my doorstep.)
Take note that artbooks from popular artists like Sakizo run out fast, so if you want to get something you’ve had your eye on for a while, I recommend grabbing it as soon as you can! The Japanese Yen has low value right now as well, so it’s a great chance to grab the books for cheaper due to the conversion rate!
I currently own three artbooks all from AliceBooks, and intend to get more when something interesting comes up again~