Tutorial: Moana Heart of Te’Fiti Pendant

Tutorial: Moana Heart of Te’Fiti Pendant

This weekend’s tutorial is a guide on making Disney’s Moana Heart of Te’Fiti pendant. The pendant–technically a piece of rock–is iconic to the movie, and is central to the plot.

When I made this tutorial, Moana was only recently released, and high resolution photos of the stone weren’t available yet, thus the end product isn’t as accurate as I’d like. Someday I may revisit this and make a more accurate tutorial!


 photo Moana-86.jpgReference from the Moana movie.
Materials:

  • Polymer clay in greens, pearl white, and translucent.
  • Scrap polymer clay
  • Mica powder
  • Microfine Glitter
  • Casting Epoxy (I use Castin’ Craft) and colorant (I use oil paints.)

 photo tefiti_1.jpgFirstly, I made a Skinner Blend using the pearl aqua green clay (my own blend of colors) and pearl white clay. Mica powder has been conditioned into each color to give it more shimmer, and the look of a precious rock. I didn’t want the rock to just be one slab of color, so I settled on making a soft gradient for it.

 photo tefiti_2.jpgThe Skinner Blend is a polymer clay technique for making gradients, and click here for a wonderful tutorial on it.

 photo tefiti_3.jpgI made the rock shape in scrap polymer clay, and go over it with the gradient. I usually use scrap clay to fill in insides of shapes or molds, so that nothing goes to waste.

 photo tefiti_4.jpgSmooth the gradient sheet over with a silicone tool. Now it looks more like a “rock”. Notice the rich shimmer thanks to the mica powder!

 photo tefiti_5.jpgI haven’t been able to take enough photos of this process, but next thing I do is roll a very thin sheet of translucent clay mixed with fine glitter, and then cut out shapes from it according to the shapes of the reference. I also cut out a shape from the rest of the gradient clay I made earlier, this time the darker part of it. I then put the cutouts over onto the base gradient rock, smoothing and blending it into it.

I then baked the rock in my oven, and then sand and buff it with a rotary tool. I meant for the stone to become a pendant, so I put in a screw pin into it.

 photo tefiti_6.jpgI wanted to give the rock it’s “glow”, so I mixed some yellow green oil paint into casting epoxy, then coating the base rock with it. I let it cure for a day.

 photo tefiti_7.jpgNotice how there’s an illusion of the rock “glowing” when it’s hit by light? It looks really pretty! *w*

If you’re aiming for a more accurate stone, I’d suggest casting the entire thing in Casting Epoxy for that transparent look, and perhaps mixing in some glow in the dark powder!

I hope this tutorial still helped you out, and I may redo this stone when time permits!

xoxo Xarin

 

Polymer Clay 101: Conditioning your Clay

Polymer Clay 101: Conditioning your Clay

Polymer clay from the pack is oftentimes firm so that they can be manufactured into their respective blocks. Before you can morph it into your desired shape, first you condition it.

[B]”Conditioning” is actually just a really fancy word for kneading your clay, either with your hands, a clay roller, or a pasta machine.

Certain brands of clay are harder to condition than others (FIMO Classic, Kato) while some clay brands are made softer and easier to condition (Bakeshop, Sculpey III).

The bigger the piece of clay, the more time you need to spend conditioning it!

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[B]Clay not conditioned well or long enough often results in air bubbles trapped inside the clay, which mostly only show up after baking.

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Properly conditioned clay will bake with a smooth surface.

I can’t tell you how long to condition a clay on specific, because it really all depends on the amount of clay you’re working with. Just make sure that there are no hard bumps and lumps that you still feel while kneading the clay!

[B]”HELP! MY CLAY IS VERY TOUGH AND IT’S SO TOUGH TO CONDITION IT!”

Some clays are much tougher than others and can be difficult to condition for those with more delicate hands.

[B]Or sometimes you’re just unlucky and end up with “expired” clay—these are clay packs that are brittle, and fall apart and just not want to stick with each other when you start to handle them.

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[B]They get rock hard because the oil and moisture in them seems to have dried out. You can use a Clay Softener to help restore them and make conditioning easy, but a cheap alternative is to get a ziplock bag and put your clay in it, add a few drops of baby oil, and let it sit at least overnight. The clay will be much easier to work with in the morning!

Hope this helps! Feel free to ask more questions, and don’t forget that every Wednesday (GMT+8) I’ll be posting Polymer Clay tips for newbies, so please follow if you’d like to stay tuned!

xoxo Xarin

Polymer Clay 101: How long should I bake my clay for?

Polymer Clay 101: How long should I bake my clay for?

Hi everyone! For the month of June, I decided to publish beginner-friendly quick tips for polymer clay crafting each week! These are often asked questions by the beginner, and things that might take them time figuring out on their own. I know it took me quite some time figuring it these things out by myself!

This week’s often asked question is:

“How long should I bake my clay for??”

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