Tutorial: Moana Heart of Te’Fiti Pendant

Tutorial: Moana Heart of Te’Fiti Pendant

This weekend’s tutorial is a guide on making Disney’s Moana Heart of Te’Fiti pendant. The pendant–technically a piece of rock–is iconic to the movie, and is central to the plot.

When I made this tutorial, Moana was only recently released, and high resolution photos of the stone weren’t available yet, thus the end product isn’t as accurate as I’d like. Someday I may revisit this and make a more accurate tutorial!

 photo Moana-86.jpgReference from the Moana movie.

  • Polymer clay in greens, pearl white, and translucent.
  • Scrap polymer clay
  • Mica powder
  • Microfine Glitter
  • Casting Epoxy (I use Castin’ Craft) and colorant (I use oil paints.)

 photo tefiti_1.jpgFirstly, I made a Skinner Blend using the pearl aqua green clay (my own blend of colors) and pearl white clay. Mica powder has been conditioned into each color to give it more shimmer, and the look of a precious rock. I didn’t want the rock to just be one slab of color, so I settled on making a soft gradient for it.

 photo tefiti_2.jpgThe Skinner Blend is a polymer clay technique for making gradients, and click here for a wonderful tutorial on it.

 photo tefiti_3.jpgI made the rock shape in scrap polymer clay, and go over it with the gradient. I usually use scrap clay to fill in insides of shapes or molds, so that nothing goes to waste.

 photo tefiti_4.jpgSmooth the gradient sheet over with a silicone tool. Now it looks more like a “rock”. Notice the rich shimmer thanks to the mica powder!

 photo tefiti_5.jpgI haven’t been able to take enough photos of this process, but next thing I do is roll a very thin sheet of translucent clay mixed with fine glitter, and then cut out shapes from it according to the shapes of the reference. I also cut out a shape from the rest of the gradient clay I made earlier, this time the darker part of it. I then put the cutouts over onto the base gradient rock, smoothing and blending it into it.

I then baked the rock in my oven, and then sand and buff it with a rotary tool. I meant for the stone to become a pendant, so I put in a screw pin into it.

 photo tefiti_6.jpgI wanted to give the rock it’s “glow”, so I mixed some yellow green oil paint into casting epoxy, then coating the base rock with it. I let it cure for a day.

 photo tefiti_7.jpgNotice how there’s an illusion of the rock “glowing” when it’s hit by light? It looks really pretty! *w*

If you’re aiming for a more accurate stone, I’d suggest casting the entire thing in Casting Epoxy for that transparent look, and perhaps mixing in some glow in the dark powder!

I hope this tutorial still helped you out, and I may redo this stone when time permits!

xoxo Xarin


Tutorial: Miraculous Ladybug Earrings

Tutorial: Miraculous Ladybug Earrings

This week’s blog update is a quick tutorial on one of our most sought-after products: Marinette’s earrings from the series “Miraculous Ladybug”.

The iconic earrings feature a red dome with five dots on them, mounted on a silver earring base. For this tutorial I’ll be using polymer clay and casting resin, to make a semi-transparent dome with dots encapsulated inside, to be sure that they don’t fade.


  • Polymer clay, in black.
  • Silicone putty, or any mold making material.
  • Casting Epoxy (I use Castin’ Craft)
  • Red colorant (I use red food color)
  • Silver earring base settings (I used 12mm ones)

 photo mlear-1.jpg
To start, I make molds from Silicone Putty with a base that I measured fits the earring base exactly. If you can’t make your own mold, or have no mold making material, be creative and use hollow domes from watercolor pans, as long as they fit your earring base! I made two molds here (other one not shown) to make a pair of earrings.

 photo mlear-2.jpg
I cut out five dots of polymer clay in black, and then position them into the mold, using liquid clay if needed to hold their place. Do the same for the other earring mold, and then bake in your polymer clay oven following your clay’s instructions.
The reason I use polymer clay for these earrings is because most people draw the dots on or use a printed base behind the dome, which will fade over time. Those are surely cheaper, less labor intensive ways to go about it, but if you plan to keep your earrings for years or want to wear them daily, and not just in cosplay, it’s worth it to go the extra trouble.

 photo mlear-3.jpg
When the dots are baked, I carefully pour a mix of tinted casting epoxy into the molds. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Don’t know how to use casting epoxy? You can check my tutorial on it here.

 photo mlear-4.jpg
After the domes are cured, I pop them out of the mold. After that I may or may not need to put an extra coat of glaze or resin on them to make them shinier… and then finally, glue them to the earring base! And we’re all done!
It looks straightforward and simple, but is actually a time-consuming progress, however the results are quite cute!

 photo il_570xN.1138640241_swqk.jpg

Remember that if you aren’t confident in your skills or don’t have access to the materials used here, you can always put in an order for these earrings at my Etsy store. Support from my store guarantees that I can keep crafting, and providing free craft and cosplay tutorials on this blog!
Happy crafting!

Polymer Clay 101: Conditioning your Clay

Polymer Clay 101: Conditioning your Clay

Polymer clay from the pack is oftentimes firm so that they can be manufactured into their respective blocks. Before you can morph it into your desired shape, first you condition it.

[B]”Conditioning” is actually just a really fancy word for kneading your clay, either with your hands, a clay roller, or a pasta machine.

Certain brands of clay are harder to condition than others (FIMO Classic, Kato) while some clay brands are made softer and easier to condition (Bakeshop, Sculpey III).

The bigger the piece of clay, the more time you need to spend conditioning it!


[B]Clay not conditioned well or long enough often results in air bubbles trapped inside the clay, which mostly only show up after baking.


Properly conditioned clay will bake with a smooth surface.

I can’t tell you how long to condition a clay on specific, because it really all depends on the amount of clay you’re working with. Just make sure that there are no hard bumps and lumps that you still feel while kneading the clay!


Some clays are much tougher than others and can be difficult to condition for those with more delicate hands.

[B]Or sometimes you’re just unlucky and end up with “expired” clay—these are clay packs that are brittle, and fall apart and just not want to stick with each other when you start to handle them.


[B]They get rock hard because the oil and moisture in them seems to have dried out. You can use a Clay Softener to help restore them and make conditioning easy, but a cheap alternative is to get a ziplock bag and put your clay in it, add a few drops of baby oil, and let it sit at least overnight. The clay will be much easier to work with in the morning!

Hope this helps! Feel free to ask more questions, and don’t forget that every Wednesday (GMT+8) I’ll be posting Polymer Clay tips for newbies, so please follow if you’d like to stay tuned!

xoxo Xarin

Polymer Clay 101: How long should I bake my clay for?

Polymer Clay 101: How long should I bake my clay for?

Hi everyone! For the month of June, I decided to publish beginner-friendly quick tips for polymer clay crafting each week! These are often asked questions by the beginner, and things that might take them time figuring out on their own. I know it took me quite some time figuring it these things out by myself!

This week’s often asked question is:

“How long should I bake my clay for??”


How to Roll out Even Sheets of Worbla from Scraps

How to Roll out Even Sheets of Worbla from Scraps

Hey everyone! Today’s post will be quick and easy. This was a method I found out while I was reheating my worbla scraps the other day! I found the quick, easy solution to making even sheets was the same way I do with clay–with the pasta machine!

…Okay, the odds are pretty low that an ordinary crafter will have a pasta machine that they can just dedicate for crafts, but I do have one I use for clay. It was in the kitchen and was unused for decades. If you happen to have one you no longer use, consider using it for crafts like clay and worbla instead!

First, heat up your worbla a bit with your heat gun.
 photo IMG_4441_zpshrjghanq.jpgI let it cool to the touch and then put it through the pasta machine. Since the machine is all metal, the worbla won’t stick as long as its not too hot!
 photo IMG_4443_zps60hrxklt.jpgThis method is great because it makes the rerolled sheet completely even, and you can set a preferred thickness!


Tutorial: Make Cosplay Accessories out of Polymer Clay

Tutorial: Make Cosplay Accessories out of Polymer Clay

Hi, I’m Xarin from Three Smitten Kittens, and for some of you who don’t know, I’ve been making a livelihood for about four years now, making cosplay accessories out of polymer clay. It’s such a versatile medium that you can use to make anything from your imagination, as long as you’re equipped with the proper tools and knowledge. Here’s a basic guide for making your own cosplay jewelry from clay. This guide is for flat jewelry, but you can apply the knowledge here to your other projects. 

The example we’re using today are the hair accessories for Corrin of Fire Emblem: Fates.

Before that, here are some resource materials you may need to learn about clay!

Where to Buy Clay in the Philippines

Which Polymer Clay Should I buy?

Polymer Clay Starter Kit Shopping List

 photo IMG_4235_zpshszwdpy0.jpgI have templates and patterns of almost everything I’ve ever made. I either extract the pattern from the actual reference on a software like Photoshop, or hand-draw my own pattern on paper or board, making sure to have accurate measurements. It helps make the item visibly proportioned and accurate. Having templates also gives you ease of reproduction–you can make an even, almost exact same duplicate copy, especially if you need to make something in pairs or more.
 photo IMG_4236_zpsxgldktsz.jpg

Making sure the sheets are perfectly even in thickness gives your accessory a professional finish. After conditioning the clay, I use a pasta machine to roll out even sheets of clay for me to use. It was an old pasta machine no one at home was using anyway, so I got permission to use it for clay. Note that once you use a pasta machine for clay, you MUST NOT use it for food again. Polymer clay, when ingested, can be toxic.Not everyone has a pasta machine or clay conditioning machine at home though, and buying some costs a lot. You can use slats instead to help guide you to getting an even thickness.

STEP 3: Cut out your clay using aid of the template.

 photo IMG_4237_zps8ehxihsp.jpgDepending on the thickness of your project, you may stack your clay on top of one another, and use a craft knife to cut your clay based on your template. I like to put the template on the clay and go over it with my acrylic roller lightly, so it “engraves” the design on the surface, and then cut based on it.

STEP 4: Assemble your accessory, bake and then add the finishing touches.
All that’s left is assembly of your item and then baking! Then you can add the finishing touches, which may be paint or varnish, and adding metal findings.
 photo corrin_etsy_main_zpsgigtrlzs.pngGoodluck and hope that helps!



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